Richard Hufton's Lands End to John O'Groats

Thursday 3rd August to Sunday 12th August 2006

in aid of

British Heart Foundation

National Autistic Society

Cancer Research UK

Hi. My name is Richard Hufton and in August 2006 I cycled from Lands End to John o Groat's for three charities - the British Heart Foundation, the National Autistic Society and Cancer Research UK. The challenge was to do 1,000 miles in 10 days or thereabouts.

Why?

I needed a challenge and as I'd done a fair bit of cycling in the past what better challenge than cycling form Lands End to John O'Groats (LEJoG)! For the past 5 or 6 years I'd completed the Great Yorkshire Bike Ride (Wetherby to Filey - 70 miles) and raised money for that events nominated charities but this year I felt I needed something more challenging. Hence LEJoG.

As ever though, I felt the need to raise money for charity as everyone I knew had come to expect my annual badgering for sponsorship. This time I was on my own though! Not only had I decided I was going to arrange accomodation, trains, etc. I had determined that all monies raised would go to charity and none of it would be used to finance the trip. Which charity to choose though? I'm sure all charities are equally worthy so how did I decide? I didn't fancy raising money for only one charity either. Where's the parity in that? Anyway, eventually three charities were selected on this basis:-

• British Heart Foundation - my dad died of a heart attack at the age of 62
• National Autistic Society - my nephew is severely autistic
• Cancer Research UK - no particular reason. I just know it can be a bit of a sod and I thought people might be happy to donate to it!

Fitness History

Like most people I used to cycle as a boy. I was always quite keen on fitness but it wasn't until I moved to London that I realised I could get to work more quickly on a bike! From Crouch End in North East London to Barons Court in South West about 40 minutes on a bike, 1 hour on the tube and up to 2 hours by car! No contest! However, when I moved back to Leeds a few years later I didn't touch a bike for ages. Aged about 30 though I decided to get back into it. I owned a series of cheap racers; a Raleigh Quasar, followed by a Raleigh Record Sprint, a Raleigh R200 and finally a Trek 1400.

Generally speaking I need a challenge to get me active or I'd turn into a couch potato. Between 2000 and 2006 I completed the Great Yorkshire Bike Ride, raising over £3,000. I'd also competed in the Leed Half Marathon a couple of times and Kirkstall Abbey Dash. I am also qualified as a personal trainer and used to run circuit classes 3 times a week at a college where I was employed and dabbled in boxing and kick-boxing.

Lands End to John o Groat's is an ambition harboured by many. It was first cycled about 1880. The record is held by Andy Wilkinson who in 1990 cycled the 874 miles in 1 day, 21 hours, 2 minutes and 18 seconds! Pauline Strong (well she'd have to be wouldn't she?) holds the women's record - 2 days, 6 hours, 49 minutes and 45 seconds!

Some Final Stuff

Well after all the route planning, setting up the website, sorting out gear, getting sponsorship, booking accomodation, training and of course actually cycling from one end of the country to the other I finally did it! A fine experience it turned out to be as well.

Would I do it again! Yes! The cycling was a doddle compared to setting up a website and getting sponsorship! I spent as much time on the web and sponsorship aspect of this venture as I did actually cycling!

Would I do anything differently? Well it would be nice to have taken a bit more time over the whole thing - everyone says this, but it would have made it less of a challenge, so no, not as a challenge but the whole venture has certainly made me more likely to go on some more cycling tours in the future!

LEJoG as a weight loss programme! It's fantastic! If you've got a decent bike and 10 hours a day to spare then go for it! I lost well over a stone during this trip and was practically unrecognisable on my return. However, if not then perhaps weight-watchers may be more suitable!

Record Sheet

Certificate



T-Shirt



I would like to thank the following people who in one way or another made this trip successful:-

My daughter Heather, for driving up to Scotland to meet me in spite of only just having passed her test!

My daughter Hazel, - well for moral support!

My girlfriend Marie, for suffering endless nights of pouring over maps with a 24 inch long piece of string, or was it 25? No wonder I was knackered - and for booking my accommodation.

My sister Terry and brothers Tony and James for their continued support before and during this venture.

Chevin Cycles, Otley for the donation of certain cycling gear!

Tash from Leeds Art Theatre - without whom I'd never have got any publicity for the event. As it happened I was on the radio and in the YEP plus 4 or 5 smaller, regional papers.

Michael Bennett from Joseph Priestley College who also facilitated my appearance in several local papers and who has also suffered constant nagging from me to update this website

Previous and potential LEJoGer's who have sent me good wishes!

... and all who sponsored me!
Money raised:-


British Heart Foundation £534.62

National Autistic Society £686.68

Cancer Research UK £500.01

Total £1,721.31

Overall Statistics

Day Route Distance Time Average Maximum Cumulative
1 Lands End - Bude 97.33 06:56:33 14.00 40.40 97.33
2 Bude - cheddar 106.77 07:17:13 14.60 47.00 204.10
3 Cheddar - Clun 123.28 09:04:58 13.60 41.10 327.38
4 Clun - Slaidburn 148.43 10:09:59 14.60 45.60 475.81
5 Slaidburn - Bassenthwaite 87.98 07:28:59 11.70 38.70 563.79
6 Bassenthwiate - Ayr 114.09 08:03:00 14.20 48.90 677.88
7 Ayr - Oban 99.42 08:01:13 12.40 33.00 777.30
8 Oban - Loch Ness 86.58 06:26:54 13.40 30.40 863.88
9 Loch Ness - Tongue 109.65 08:48:21 12.40 36.90 973.53
10 Tongue - John o' Groats 69.98 05:01:23 12.90 35.80 1043.51
Average 104.35 Total Time 77:18:33
Average Daily 7:44

Thanks

Richard Hufton

Day 10

Tongue to John o' Groats

Distance: 69.98

Average: 12.9

Maximum: 35.8

Duration: 5:01:23

Cumulative: 1,043.51

My room mates for the night (Ian and Robert, I think!) were doing a round trip of Scotland in a buggy. They were raising money for farmers with cancer or something. One of them was a recovering cancer sufferer and I felt quite pleased to be in their company for a while.

The Buggy

The "madder" one of the two volunteered to rub some cream on my oversized ankle! I'm always a bit suspicious of men who carry cream but I didn't want to offend so I acquiesced! I became very worried when this guy started grinning manically, rubbing his hands with glee and muttering something about "an Englishman in his power"! What had I let myself in for? However, I have to say, for a farmer from north of the border he had very gentle hands!

I was in no particular hurry this morning! A mere 65 miles or so! What's the rush! My daughter was meeting me at John o Groat's. She'd stayed in Perth, some 200 miles away, the previous evening and I didn't expect her to be at John o Groat's before 2 anyway. She'd only recently passed her driving test and I didn't want to rush her.

Tongue Youth Hostel

I saddled up and was away. I wasn't in a hurry for another reason. I didn't really want this journey to be over. I was looking forward to meeting my daughter and I was looking forward to the ensuing week we had planned in Scotland but I knew the moment I crossed the line at John o Groat's it would all be over! All the months of planning, the anticipation, the training, would be over the very moment I dismounted and strangely, instead of seeing it as the achievement it was, in some ways it was going to be a disappointment. A bit of an anticlimax I suppose. Anyway, I couldn't actually cycle any slower, it's not in my nature, so I just decided to stop a little more and enjoy the views! And what views. There is some stunning coastline between Tongue and John o' Groats. A lot of today was just as I hoped it would be, a bit wild and rugged with plenty of glimpses of jagged shoreline. It was certainly very hilly! Like a big dipper or a Stegosaurus’s back! It even rained quite a lot which on reflection was quite fitting. This was the north of Scotland at the end of an epic journey! I didn't want any of that namby pamby sunshine. I needed rain, thunder lightening, and hill after monstrous hill! Well, I didn't really but you have to try and put a positive slant on it, don't you? I mean, I can't control the weather but I wasn’t going to moan about it either! (Next time I plan a trip like this, believe me, I'll make sure I do it in the Mediterranean!)

Coast at Bettyhill

I stopped just after Thurso for a bite to eat and very shortly after continuing the van driven by the daughter of a LEJoGer from the youth hostel the previous night passed me! I reckoned that meant that the cyclists were just in front of me or close on my tail! I didn't want the ignominy of been passed at the final hurdle (why, I don't really know!) so I pedalled for all I was worth for the last 10 or so miles and arrived elated at John o Groat's. So much for a leisurely cycle but a fast finish was a fitting finale to this journey.

Fantastic! I did it! I wasn’t sure what I felt or indeed how I was supposed to feel! A mixture of pride and indifference! Proud to have done it for sure but what next?

John O'Groats

When I arrived at the signposts there was a guy there who had walked it in 52 days - he'd cycled it 10 years ago and there was another guy who had cycled it in 18 days. Dan! Amazingly he lived in Horsforth, Leeds. 1 mile from my house in Cookridge. His kids went to the same school as mine and he used to live in the street next to me in Cookridge! His wife was on her way up to meet him and when comparing our various messages it appeared that his wife and my daughter must have been travelling up from Perth at the same time! In fact they arrived 10 minutes apart! Small world!

An Undignified End to a Trustworthy Companion!

Anyway, that is that! Job done! 1,043.51 miles in 10 days and a few bob to three charities! Fab!

Day 9

Loch Ness to Tongue

Distance: 109.65

Average: 12.4

Maximum: 36.9

Duration: 8:48:21

Cumulative: 973.53

This morning started with my now all too familiar cold oats with milk, and coffee. I got talking to a woman whose husband was doing the LEJoG and he had also stayed here the previous night. He'd left early to meet his LEJoG companion who'd had the good fortune to stay with friends in Inverness. After wishing her and her absent husband well I got my bike from the cycle shed, wheeled it around to the front of the hostel and started the daily ritual of securing my bag to the seat post bracket. A two minute job that usually goes without hitch. Not today! This is the moment on my trip where I got attacked! By midges! I rather foolishly thought that this small exposure would do me no harm! How wrong I was! I suffered the consequences of that two minute midge mauling for at least three weeks and I still have the odd small white scar to prove it! Cor blimey it didn’t half itch!

I continued up the side of Loch Ness until Drumadrochit and then left Loch Ness. No sign of Nessie! Maybe next time. I turned left on the A831 and then right on to the A833 to be confronted by another type of monster! A huge hill! I continued along this somewhat wild road but as I got to within about 5 miles from Beauly I saw hoards of tents in a field! I couldn't quite see why the place was so popular! Granted it was Scotland and all of Scotland has attractions! But why here? The proximity of the tents to each other and the preponderance of young people led me to believe that this must be a pop festival of some kind! This was confirmed some time later back home! I think it must have been the Tartan Heart Festival.

On through Beauly! The winner of Scotland in Bloom or something like that! A very attractive place with every other building sporting hanging baskets! On to Muir of Ord, Conan Bridge and through Dingwall to join the A9 for a while before turning on to the B817 to Evanton. It was here that I came across some fellow cyclists mending a puncture! I borrowed some cycle oil from one of them and realised that I'd come across the guy and his mate and a couple of others from the youth hostel that morning. After swapping notes I was on my way.

Dornoch Firth

Continuing along the B817 I joined the B9176. I then joined the A836 at Bonar Bridge where I had the usual food stop. Up the A836 I then took the B864 to take the back road past the Falls of Shinns and on to Lairg. The next part of the journey, the 40 or so miles from Lairg to Tongue I approached with some trepidation. I'd read that it was one of the more desolate stretches of the journey and I was half expecting to be attacked by wild wolves, feral cats or sassenach hating Scotsmen ...

MacKay Country
Warning in German! Why? (or - Warnen auf Deatsch! Warum?)
Out of all the signs on this 40 mile stretch of road this was the only one I noticed that wasn't in English! This must be a particularly popular spot with out Teutonic visitors!

Near Altnaharra

... this didn't happen. I didn't have a puncture nor did my bike break in any way either! What a great relief as I didn't see many signs of civilisation in those 40 or so miles! On most days I had come to regard 40 or 50 miles to go as been nearly there and this day was no exception. However seeing Tongue Youth Hostel at the edge of the causeway from the hill above was a very welcome and pretty sight.

Causeway at Tongue

Tongue Youth Hostel had just been re-opened in June 2006 and was the most comfortable I stayed in! After eating the usual tinned meat and beans for tea I retired to the living room where there were a group talking about the mad Scotsman that had been talking to them earlier. The mad Scotsman duly arrived a while later and did indeed seem to be quite a jovial fellow. Anyway on retiring to my room a while later I found myself sharing with the mad Scotsman and his mate! During the course of a sleepless night I got talking to these two and we were all amazed at the Italian guy dressed in a kilt propping up the front door to the hostel, making a long distance call back home when most god-fearing folk had taken to their beds!

Still, I didn't feel I needed too much sleep! Last day tomorrow! I'm as good as there!

Day 8

Oban to Loch Ness

Distance: 86.58

Average: 13.4

Maximum: 30.4

Duration: 6:26:54

Cumulative: 863.88

The previous evening, in the absence of anything else, I ordered what was described as a "mini" breakfast. I didn't know what to expect but the word "mini" wasn't encouraging! I was however pleasantly surprised when I was presented with a box of museli, a yoghurt, two breadcakes, jam, butter and milk.

Off I went, up the A85 to Connel and turned left on to the A828. I arrived at the junction with the A82 and realised I probably needed to be up on the bridge to my left. I resisted the temptation to carry my bike up the steel steps at the foot of the bridge and cycled round. No cheating on this trip! Although the bridge itself wasn’t particularly attractive, a steel affair, the views to either side were spectacular.

View from South Ballachulish Bridge, West

View from South Ballachulish Bridge, East


Onwards and up towards Fort William. I didn't particularly enjoy this stretch of road. It was quite narrow and at times I felt like I was been a bit of a nuisance to the traffic. I shouldn’t feel like that I know but there you go!

There were quite a few cyclists loaded up to the hilt with panniers front and rear, handlebar bags and saddle bags heading towards me! John o' Groats to Lands End perhaps? Whenever I saw these very heavily laden cyclists I often questioned my lack of gear. However it was always my intention to travel as light as possible and I never felt I wanted for anything.

As ever when I'm cycling I like to have some idea of what’s behind me so I frequently glance over my shoulder. I usually do this without any problems! However somewhere between Oban and Fort William I did this and when I turned back to the front again I found myself in the grass verge. For about 10 heart stopping metres I was heading over rough grass and it was only by the grace of god that I ended up, still in the saddle, back on the road with no damage to me or Mr Trek!

I arrived at Fort William to a familiar sight! Tesco's! They get everywhere! Time to stock up with the usual pies, apples, bananas, chocolate and milk. That was lunch! For my evening meal I bought a tin of beans, a tin of luncheon meat and a couple of breadcakes! Yuk, but tinned food won’t get squashed in my bag!

Lunch stop, Fort William

I turned left out of Fort William on the A830 with the intention of turning right up the B8004 to take the back road to Spean Bridge. There was a right turn within about half a mile. After looking at the map and dithering around for a while I couldn't determine if this was the B8004 or not. I didn't want to risk cycling up this road or continue along the A830 for fear I might take a wrong turn so I retraced my steps back to the A82 and headed for Spean Bridge on the shorter but busier route.

Three Commando's Memorial, near Spean Bridge

I continued up this road eventually arriving at Fort Augustus. I was relatively early so I spent almost an hour watching boats of varying quality and size negotiating their way into and out of the lochs. It had turned into a really warm afternoon and I was totally at peace with the world.

Loch at Fort Augustus

Cycling on - it was time for some Nessie hunting! I didn't have a boat equipped with sonar but I did have a digital camera with a zoom lens and a wild imagination! Surely a sighting of some description would ensue in the next 12 hours or so!

Loch Ness Monster parhaps?

Waterfalls at Invermoriston

I continued on the road until I reached the youth hostel at Alltsigh. The youth hostel was in a great location overlooking the loch! I was sleeping in the annexe and again I had a room to myself! Talk about luxury! I cooked my grub and relaxed with the other hostellers in a cosy atmosphere overlooking the loch and gave my ankle a well earned rest!

Spot the difference!

Only two days to go! I was getting used to this way of living and wasn't really looking forward to the end!

View over Loch Ness from Hostel

Day 7

Ayr to Oban

Distance: 99.42

Average: 12.4

Maximum: 33.0

Duration: 8:01:13

Cumulative: 777.30

I was up and away early as I had no breakfast to consume and I had a ferry to catch - the 9:45 from Ardrossan to Brodick. My route took me via Arran. This would avoid Glasgow, which according to other LEJoG accounts is a bit of a nightmare.

I went back to the A77 and headed north and joined the A78. Blimey, this was a busy road and not too pleasant a day. By the time I'd got to the outskirts of Irvine I'd had enough of playing with the traffic on the dual carriageways so I cycled through Irvine, then Kilwinning and on to Ardrossan. I bought my ticket, took my place at the head of the queue and waited to be allowed on board. This was a part of the journey I had especially looked forward to. I'd always wanted to visit a Scottish island but as yet hadn’t. One of my original plans (there were many!) was to go via Arran, Mull and Skye but I had to abandon that idea as it would have been a nightmare co-ordinating accommodation with ferry times and mileage, and absolutely nothing to do with the fact that my average daily mileage for the last five days would increase to 125!

Ferry - Ardrossan to Brodick


Once on board I went down to tie my bike up as directed by an attendant. Just as I'd finished and was about to walk off a pair of policemen came on board and tied their bikes up also! Well I kid you not when I say that one of these policeman was at least 6 feet 10 tall and weighed, I reckoned, at least 20 stone! A very heavy police presence all on his own! From a distance policeman two looked minute but when they got close he was no tiddler either!

Anyway by this time I was a bit peckish to say the least. Not having eaten since about yesterday lunch time I was ready to devour the entire contents of the restaurant. Gone were my ideas of staring out to sea and watching the mainland disappear and Arran arrive. My empty stomach took precedence. The ensuing grub was probably the best English breakfast I have ever tasted. I was tempted to get another but resisted as the lure of watching the waves was too strong. I went outside. Portside in fact! It was blowing a hurricane! I was determined however that I was going to stay on deck. I made my way to the rear of the ship to have that promised look at the mainland. As I rounded the corner the bulk of the ship turned the wind right down.

Stone the crows! Who was this solitary figure in front of me? Another behemoth! This one was famous! I won't mention his name but he was in the country of his birth, could be described as "Crackers" and his initials are RC! Just him and me at the stern! Marvellous! What, with him and the policeman on board I was contemplating spending the rest of the trip keeping my eye on their relative positions so that I could manoeuvre my rapidly disappearing 15 stone frame strategically so that we wouldn't capsize. I soon realised this was going to be futile so I relaxed and enjoyed Arran’s intriguing outline gradually dominate the horizon.

Alighting from the boat I passed the cars queuing to exit Brodick harbour and headed north on the cost road to Lochranza. This is a very nice route going through lovely villages, isolated inlets and a mountain pass.

Mountain in Arran - Beinn Bhiorach perhaps!


I arrived at Lochranza with an hour to spare. A welcome break for my ankle! This ferry stop was a lot smaller than the previous two. When the ferry turned up it was tiny in comparison to the monster I’d been on earlier! Once on board I headed for the top and for the third time in the day enjoyed the rare luxury of putting my feet up.

Arran from Claonaig


Once back on dry land I cycled up the B8001, joined the A83 and headed for Tarbet! I was still hungry so I stopped at a local supermarket and bought pies, an apple, banana, chocolate and of course milk and had lunch overlooking Tarbet Harbour.

Tarbet harbour


I continued up the A83 to Lochgilphead and then took the A816 towards Oban. The changeable weather on this day could do nothing to take away the splendour of this route. One minute a loch on the right, the next the sea on the left, and up and down through wooded passes. My dodgy ankle meant that my riding style up hills was slightly altered. Usually I’m out of the saddle, rocking from side to side but with my iffy ankle I found it more comfortable to remain seated for all but the fiercest inclines.

Loch Melfort (I think!)


Because of the ferry times I arrived at Oban Youth Hostel quite late. I decided not to bother going out for food again that night as I’d eaten loads during the day! The room I was in had great views over Oban harbour! By this time my ankle was quite swollen and I suppose I was at a bit of a low point as I realised that it certainly wasn’t going to get any better during the course of this trip! Still it should last for three more days!

Oban Youth Hostel

Day 6

Bassenthwaite to Ayr

Distance: 114.09

Average: 14.2

Maximum: 48.9

Duration: 8:03:00

Cumulative: 677.88

Today started with a monstrous breakfast in the sailing club clubhouse overlooking Bassenthaite Lake. The views were fantastic and it was a wonderful morning. It looked like a day more suited to messing about on a lake than a 100 mile cycle slog!

Bassenthwaite Lake


After saying my goodbye's I was off. Heading on the minor roads to Uldale and then the B5299 through Caldbeck and on to Carlisle. It was while toiling up a huge hill in the Uldale region that I started feeling a twitch in my right ankle. I didn’t think much of it at the time. However when I got off my bike in Carlisle I knew there was something definitely amiss. I was walking with a distinct limp as I couldn’t flex my ankle without it giving my achilles some hassle. I’d had a bit of trouble like this in training on my left achilles but it had all cleared up about a month before setting off and I was hoping that it wouldn’t recur! It had but on the other foot! Oh well, enough whingeing!

I now had a choice to make – up the A74, a very busy route apparently or on the A7 to Longtown and then the A6071 to Gretna Green. I opted for the A74. How bad could it be … ??? Blinking terrible! That’s how bad! A bit too close to the traffic for my liking! Still, I arrived in Gretna Green in one piece!

Scotland! I must be nearly there now!


When planning this journey, instead of taking a complete map I cut out the relevant sections. 24 in all. Unfortunately the section between Gretna and Dumfries had gone missing. I had it in my back pocket when leaving Bassenthwaite I'm sure but I couldn’t find it now. My intention was to go on the minor roads which ran adjacent to the A75 to get to Dumfries but now I’d have to take my chances with the traffic on the A75 instead. Like the A74, the A75 had a solid white line on the nearside edge of the carriageway and like on the A74 I ducked into this narrow strip of road where practicable when there was traffic coming from behind. I don’t think cyclists have an obligation to cycle here but I felt it was fair of me to do so to let following traffic pass without impediment! Well that and self-preservation! I was quite happily cycling along this stretch with my dodgy ankle thinking, “well, at least it’s not raining and I haven’t had a puncture so far!” When what do you know? It started raining! Oh well, just crack on! I was still merrily cycling along when a large lorry was approaching from behind and a large patch of gravel appeared on my narrow strip in front! What was I to do? Pull out in front of the lorry or cycle over the grit? I didn’t fancy arguing with a lorry so I went for the grit! And guess what? My first puncture! This could be considered a bad day I suppose! Anyway onwards! Into Dumfries for food and milk, up the A76 and on to the B729. Bliss! This was a much quieter road thankfully and a very welcome change from the A75. I went up through Dunscore ...

Dunscore



... on to Monaive and then I enjoyed a really nice stretch of road between Monaive and Carsphairn. I then took the A713 to Ayr. By this time it was bucketing down. I was going pretty well but at the same time I was really looking forward to getting my feet up and drying off.

I was staying at the Scottish Agricultural College, Auchincruive, near Ayr. This, I reckoned, would be a change from the normal youth hostel as it was a university campus which let student rooms out over the summer. I was under the impression that there were some kind of catering facilities here. I was wrong. There was no food at all. This place seemed to be quite a way from “civilisation” and I was soaked. No way was I going back out again! My ankle needed to see a bed so I scrounged the Sunday Times from the student in charge, showered and retired. A room to myself again! Luxury!

Wilson Hall, Scottish Agricultural College, Auchincruive, near Ayr

Day 5

Slaidburn to Bassenthwaite

Distance 87.98

Average: 11.7

Maximum: 38.7

Duration: 7:28:59

Cumulative: 563.79

The only food I carried with me during the course of the trip was a packet of porridge oats and some decaf coffee. To set me up for today I had cold porridge with water and a black decaf coffee. Yummy!

In a way today was a bit special. I was going to meet up with my eldest daughter, Heather, at Bassenthwaite Sailing Club. I hadn't seen her for 2 months as she had been an au pair in Austria during the summer. She was accompanying my ex, her mum, on a week at the sailing club. An event they have there every year.

I left Slaidburn on a minor road to High Bentham. It looked like being another sunny day! I live in Leeds and this has always been one part of the country I had always wanted to visit but it was always overlooked in favour of the Dales and the Lakes. After cycling through here I decided that this was a bit unfair!

Looking back towards Slaidburn

I was cycling up a very long hill (again!). In the distance I could see a lone figure walking up the road. As I drew nearer I could see that he was dressed in everyday clothes but with a hooded top. (but he certainly wasn't a "Hoodie") I was convinced I approached him with the stealth of a fox yet he said "Hello", without turning his head when I was about 5 metres away! "Hello", I responded back and continued slogging up the hill. There had been no cars for miles before and there were no cars for miles afterwards and there wasn't a single dwelling in sight! Where had he come from? Where was he going? As I got to the top of the hill I could still see this solitary walker in the distance! Was it the ghost of the Forest of Bowland, a lost local, or was I hallucinating? Very strange!

Looking back down large hill! Mystery man is on the second stretch of road (Honest!)


I continued to High Bentham, through Ingleton and took a minor road to Dent.

Waterfalls on road to Dent


I bought some food from the store in Dent and ate the best food (ham salad sandwich!) I'd had since I'd set off! I was visiting Dent as my old fellows tribute picnic table is in the car park there. I'd heard that this bench may not be there anymore but it was. I had to wait around for about half an hour to get to it as some workmen were enjoying their lunch in the sun. I could wait no longer so I ambled over and got chatting to them. A couple of photo's and a donation later I had the table to myself.

Adam Sedgwick Memorial, Geologist, Centre of Dent


Old fellow's bench, Dent


Plaque on bench

From Dent I took the road to Sedbergh. I then took the A684 and headed to Kendal. I turned off just before Kendal and headed to Oxenhope and then Natland and eventually worked my way to Lumley Fee, just above Brigsteer. This is where the theatre group I'm involved with (Leeds Art Theatre) come for their annual residential. There are outstanding views across the valley. To the west you can see the coast and the east the Lake District mountains.

Lumley Fee

After a nice rest here, reluctantly I mounted up again and headed through Brigsteer, Underbarrow and Crook. I then took the B5284 to Windermere and the A592 to Bowness. The Lake District is a bit of an old stomping ground . I've spent many holidays up its mountains and it's always great to return. I continued up through Ambleside, Grasmere and up Dunmail Raise.

Rydal Water


I took the road to the west of Thirlmere and followed the A591 in to Keswick and then the A66 along Bassenthwaite Lake. Turning on to the B5291 I arrived at Bassenthwaite Sailing Club to be met by Heather.

Eldest offspring in front of my luxurious accomodation

I pitched my tent very close to the lake and enjoyed a couple of beers by an outside fire and then a couple more in the clubhouse. The place was heaving! There must be more to this sailing lark than I first thought! I half wished I could stay there a few more days. It really did make me question myself! Why was I doing this blinking ride when I could be relaxing with a few beers! Anyway I retired to my tent quite late with these thoughts! What the heck though? It had been a comparatively easy day and I was half way there!

Day 4

Clun to Slaidburn

Distance: 148.43

Average: 14.6

Maximum: 45.6

Duration: 10:09:59

Cumulative: 475.81

I couldn't get to sleep last night. Partly due to the snoring orchestra and partly due to my own excitement! I found myself laughing out loud and having to stifle my laughter. I was feeling high and extremely pleased with myself for some reason!

Despite the sleepless night I was up early and away for 7:30. In my mind today was always going to be a bit of a hurdle. It was going to be by far the longest day and I reckoned once I'd got this out of the way the rest of the journey would be a piece of cake.

I had this section of the CTC YHA route so decided to try and follow this. I set off up the A488 towards Bishops Castle, turned right and followed the minor roads towards Norbury and then Ratlinghope. I then turned left and followed the road through Habberley, Pontesbury, Hinton, Lea, Nox, Ford, Yeaton and Baschurch. From Baschurch I continued on the minor roads through Westoncommon, Lower Hordley, Lee and Ellesmere. I stopped by The Mere in Ellesmere for a while and admired the view. I'd stopped here a couple of times before on journeys to Wales and I remembered the place with affection. Arriving by bicycle did not disappoint. It was a glorious day and I would quite happily have tarried a little longer but Slaidburn called. So after a quick chat with another cyclist I was off on my merry way!

The Mere, Ellesmere


Up the A529 to Olveston and then the B5069 through Bangor is y Coed and on to Worthenbury. I then turned left and headed to Farndon and took the B5130 towards Aldford. On turning right at Aldford I found myself on a newly surface road still covered with loose grit. Once the new surface returned to the old I stopped and quickly checked that my tyres had no pieces of grit embedded in them! They hadn't but to my horror the rear tyre that had looked so robust in Leeds was now a shadow of its former self. (A bit like me on arrival at John o Groat's). Stringy bits were showing through! What was I to do? I couldn't take a chance that these tyres would last all the way to John o' Groats. I needed to get them changed and quickly. On consulting my list of cycle shops that I had the foresight to bring with me I discovered that there were a couple in Warrington and one in Chorley. I'd head towards them and give 'em a ring when I was nearer. I continued on through Bruera, Waverton, Guilden Sutton and on to the A56. I rechecked my tyres! Nope, the heat of the day hadn't miraculously melted the rubber and reformed the perfect tyre. I was certainly going to have to ring around! It was Sunday! I didn't hold out much hope! After a couple of calls with no reply a fellow cyclist noticed me on the phone and came to offer assistance. He told me of a cycle shop in Frodsham a few miles further away which he reckoned might be open. I wasn't so sure. Wracking my brains I realised Halfords might be my saviour. "Any of those in the vicinity?" "Yes", he told me, "On the A49 just north of Warrington". Fantastic. The cycle shop in Frodsham was closed but I took the opportunity to fill up with milk. Halfords wasn't. Two tyres fitted within half an hour and off on my way. Thank you Halfords and thanks to the scouser who cycled to his mums in Kendal on a Trek similar to mine for stopping and helping me out!

Earlier in the day I was undecided whether to follow the YHA route which wriggled around the Manchester metrolopis or take the more direct A49 route. My dodgy tyre determined that. Up through Ashton, Wigan and then the B5251 to Chorley. Chorley, I concluded was a strange place! Some lads passed me in a car and shouted "banker"! Well with all this internet banking and such I haven't had call to visit a financial institution for a while but I guess their staff must dress as cyclists in these parts!

I continued on the A674 towards Blackburn. By this time it was chucking it down. Still it's only water and it enabled me to try my new waterproof on! (It turned out to be excellent!) After crossing the M65 I took the A675 towards Preston. My intention was to take a side road and head through to Longbridge and then follow the minor roads to Slaidburn. I don't know what happened but I couldn't see any side roads and before I knew it I was passing under the M6 (again)! I took the B6230 out of Preston and joined the A59. This time passing over the M6!

The M6! (Criss-crossed this more times than I should have today!)

Time was getting on and it was still chucking it down. I didn't fancy getting lost so I decided to go straight along the A59 to Clitheroe. I then took the B6478 to Slaidburn. By this time the rain had abated and I had quite a nice but very hilly ride to Slaidburn.

Slaidburn Youth Hostel (pictured the following morning!)


I was pleased to arrive there as I was soaked through but I didn't actually feel that tired! I had no opportunity to buy any food en route so I bought a couple of tins and cooked a meal. The hostel was pretty quiet and I had a room all to myself! Surely a good nights sleep would ensue! Luxury!

Day 3

Cheddar to Clun

Distance: 123.28

Average: 13.6

Maximum: 41.1

Duration: 9:04:58

Cumulative: 327.38

Cheddar Youth Hostel was one of those that offered breakfast and a packed lunch, at a price of course. I took full advantage! It saved me the bother of shopping around for food the previous evening! When I received my lunch pack an envelope was attached! An anonymous donation (from Carol apparently!) who was "most impressed by my efforts"! Very touching.

Cheddar Gorge


Off I went, straight up Cheddar Gorge! Blimey, a hill first thing in the morning - voluntarily! I must be mad! It seemed to go on forever! This could be because I took "a slight detour". I found myself going the wrong way on the A3135 heading for Green Ore. Anyway I was soon back on track heading towards West Haptree, Chew Valley Lake, Chew Stoke, Chew Magna, (do they eat a lot around here?) and Long Ashton.

Chew Valley Lake

The previous night I had decided to follow the CTC YHA route through Bristol. (I took the Bristol and Manchester sections of this route with me - just in case!) This goes via the Clifton suspension bridge. I thought it'd be fun to go over that! I had however, a sneaking suspicion that I'd missed a turn somewhere. This was confirmed when I saw said bridge in the distance.

Clifton Suspension Bridge

Oh well, what the 'eck! I'll go straight through Bristol. It'd probably be quicker!

Bristol Cathedral - I think! A large church like building in the centre of town!

In the centre of Bristol I stopped to ask a guy for directions! A big mistake! This guy was, I discovered, worse for wear from the previous evening and was almost incoherent! After humouring him for 5 minutes we parted! Me on my endurance quest no wiser on which way to go and him clutching a bunch of flowers. My guess was they were possibly purchased to placate the missus after a night on the town.

Cycling through the centre of Bristol wasn't as bad as I thought it might be! Maybe it's because it was beautiful morning. I followed the A38 right out of Bristol and eventually got myself to Olveston. From there I went down to the services and across the footbridge to the West side of the M4 and in to Wales. Crossing the bridge was a bit surreal. Just me and my bike on this track and lots of motorway traffic thundering past. I stopped to take a couple of photo's halfway across but soon moved on as every time a lorry passed the bridge juddered in a very disconcerting manner.

M4 bridge over the Severn


Wales! I could see the signs welcoming me but I couldn't get to them! I was stuck on a cycle track on the other side of the road! (The only cycle track I used on the whole journey!) After a couple of attempts to get down a steep banking to get across the road I gave up and decided the only way across was by going back about a quarter of a mile, so I did! I'm sure you'll agree this stunning photograph was worth the effort!!

Croeso i Gymru


Wales, eh? I sent a couple of texts to people - "Croeso i Gymru". Surprisingly they understood! Onwards up the A466 towards Monmouth. As planned, I turned left at St Arvans to keep to minor roads. Another big mistake! Yet another big hill up to Devauden! Time for milk! £1.98 for four pints! Blimey! Could I not have purchased the whole blooming cow for that - and had a steak dinner as well? Anyway, it was worth it, I suppose!

I continued on the B4293 to Monmouth and then the B4347 to Rockfield and Grosmont, which I particularly liked the look of despite the store been closed! Onward through the Golden Valley and to another welcome milk stop at Peterchurch. A very nice stretch of road and not too hilly! I then went over a toll bridge but there didn't seem to be any way of paying so I pedalled on through! Now I had to find the right turn which would take me to Kington. I passed a road going off to my right. Surely that wasn't it! It wasn't signposted to Kington, just Brilley. On checking my map it seemed to be the way but another monstrous hill! Oh well, so much for the first 2 days been the most hilly as is commonly stated! I suppose choosing my own obscure route didn't help matters! Perhaps I should have bought a map with contour lines! Through Kington (apparently the walking centre of Wales or something) and on the B4355 to Presteigne (the gateway to Wales apparently!) Yet more hills! Then from Prestiegne to Knighton and, well, more hills!

Knighton is a place I used to drive to a couple of times a week for about 8 years in a former life! I got chatting to a guy there to ask about the factory I used to visit! It closed down in approximately 1996! This guy gave me a donation and advised me that the road between Knighton and Clun, my destination, was very hilly! He was right! Still, I had come to embrace hills by this point and although they felt like they were the toughest hills of the day they weren't going to be a problem!

I purchased some provisions in a shop in Clun and headed for the youth hostel. The centre of Clun was alive. The pub was overflowing.

Clun Youth Hostel


Clun youth hostel was one of the nicest buildings and locations I stayed at. The room however was one of the smallest. 8 men packed in! 4 others of whom were fellow LEJoGer's. It was extremely hot and there was a snoring competition going on throughout the night!

3 days down and still feeling on top of the world!